More higher this Value is,the more it will be locked. "The Differential" you can Setup via that fast Setup Option.
The ground clearance must be Setup too manual,or you maybe hit the Ground to often and lost Traction because of that. Setting a slightly Harder Value at the Back provides a better turn-in at the Front. Gravel and Snow Setups need a more Soft value (low) then Tarmac. Then go Advanced and to anti Rollbar Settings and Setup this,because default Setup here is always a Value of 0 and thats not normal. "Suspensions" you have to set for yourself,after you choose One of the 10 Setting Options.
Wrc 8 setups manual#
Manual gives you an added control over the car as well. Most use a sequential shifter add on, but the flappy paddles on the wheel are just fine as well. On asphalt I tend to leave it on 1 and just adjust the brake bias.Īnd Morbis is right about manual, especially if you are on a wheel. For me this is more for gravel/snow stages. Coupled with adjusting the brake bias, this really helps to remove almost all the understeer in the cars under braking and really helps you get the car into a controlled slide in fast and easy bends. Set differential locking to 2 instead of the default 1.
This, coupled with my #3, gives the car a little bit of oversteer when tapping the brake into a bend.ģ. I always set brake bias to 45 instead of default 50. I usually lower it two clicks from whatever it gives me.Ģ. I have noticed that the game will sometimes default to a setting of 8 for instance in Argentina and Turkey or 6 in Mexico. On gravel stages, I always check the suspension stiffness. I use most of the default settings on the cars, but depending on the rally, I do adjust a few things sometimes.ġ.
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